Real Ramen vs. The Hype: A Tokyo Native's Take
What NYC gets right (and wrong) about ramen
Ryan Tanaka
Ramen & Japanese Cuisine
January 10, 2024 · 2 min read
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1. Momofuku Noodle Bar
East Village
2. Ivan Ramen
Lower East Side
I lived in Tokyo for four years, eating ramen almost daily. Now I'm in NYC, and I have thoughts.
The Good News:
NYC's ramen scene has improved dramatically. There are legit spots now that would hold their own in Tokyo.
Ivan Ramen is the real deal. Ivan Orkin earned his stripes in Tokyo, and it shows. The triple-garlic triple-pork mazemen is as good as anything in Japan.
Ippudo expanded from Fukuoka and maintained quality. The akamaru modern is exactly what it should be - rich, complex, with that perfect noodle chew.
What Most Places Get Wrong:
1. The Broth - Many NYC spots make their broth too thick, thinking richness = authenticity. Real tonkotsu should be creamy but balanced.
2. The Noodles - If they're mushy, the whole bowl fails. Noodles should have bite (what we call "koshi" in Japanese).
3. The Toppings - Chashu should be melt-in-your-mouth tender. Too many places serve it cold or dry.
My Hot Take:
Stop ordering extra toppings. A proper ramen bowl is balanced as designed. Adding extra this and that throws off the ratio that the chef carefully planned.
The Spots Worth Your Time:
Start with Ivan Ramen or Ippudo. If you like what you taste, then branch out. But please, skip the trendy spots with weird fusion bowls. That's not ramen - that's noodle soup with an identity crisis.
Pro Tips:
- Eat ramen fresh - it's meant to be eaten immediately
- The counter seats are best - watch the chefs work
- Don't slurp just for show - it actually aerates the broth
- Finish in under 10 minutes - noodles keep cooking in the hot broth
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Ryan Tanaka
Ramen & Japanese Cuisine
Ramen researcher 🍜 | Lived in Tokyo 4 years | Broth specialist | Ramen Chronicles author
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